Sunday, November 1, 2009

The Lost Land of Sugarcane

Today I am preparing to head into my third week in Pernambuco, or what I have dubbed the lost land of sugarcane in Northeast Brazil. Ask most biofuels experts (or even Brazil experts in general for that matter) where Brazil's sugarcane ethanol comes from, and most will say São Paulo, the large agricultural state in the south. However, much of the sugar and ethanol produced in Brazil also comes from the small state of Pernambuco, where large wealthy landowners have been converting the Atlantic Forest to sugarcane plantations for 500 years. In the hot and humid Forest Region of Pernambuco, there is less forest and fewer small farmers and fishermen every year due to the expansion of sugarcane plantations.

Over the past two weeks I have taken a number of trips out to the sugarcane producing region to witness how sugarcane is being produced. Below I have included some pictures from those trips with captions describing the reality of the production of sugarcane that is turned into sugar and ethanol for consumption within Brazil and for export to the world which has deemed Brazil's ethanol industry as "sustainable", carbon neutral, and good for the local economy. During these two weeks I have seen and heard enough already to fill several more pages of this blog with a strong argument against anyone who would make such claims about Brazil's ethanol production. I'll keep it simple for now and let these pictures and brief captions do the talking.


Stillage, a toxic liquid waste produced when sugarcane is 
turned into sugar or ethanol, being dumped into a ditch in 
the middle of a plantation. Some of this stillage will be dilluted 
with water and then sprayed onto the fields as fertilizer (as 
seen in the picture below), and some of it will end up in 
local waterways. How stillage is disposed of has huge consequences 
for local ecosystems and the people who depend on them for 
water and food. In some local rivers and estuaries fish 
are found poisoned and floating dead on the surface every day.

 
A sugarcane field after being burnt and harvested. In the 
background, a field being sprayed with stillage as fertilizer, 
and a mangrove forest. What you can't see in the picture is 
that there is a man made ditch between the mangrove and 
the sugarcane field, interrupting the flow of water into the 
mangrove, drying it out, and preparing it to be cut down 
and converted to a sugarcane field. This is part of a process of 
converting forests to agricultural land that has been going
on here for centuries.

 
  
Sugarcane cutters in the field. These men and women work 
long hours cutting cane and are paid by the ton of cane they cut

rather than an hourly wage. In Pernambuco's Forest Region 
cutting sugarcane is the principal economic activity for most
rural families. The concentration of land in the hands of 
the sugarcane plantation owners has left little land for small 
farmers to work in non-sugar agriculture or any other industry. Fishing 
communities are also suffering as mangroves are destroyed and rivers
and estuaries are polluted.


 
 Children and women bathing and washing clothes in a small river
on the edge of a sugarcane plantation. The fields are covered with
dilluted stillage and less than 500 feet from this spot there was an
overflowing tank of pure stillage. You can only imagine what the water
quality here must be like. For the people living on the edge of the
plantation- they were most likely driven there at some point in the past-
this is an important source of water. Hopefully it's just for bathing
and washing and not for drinking.

 
A man selling  fruit on market day in Sirinhaém. He is
someone who has been lucky enough to be able to hold onto
his land and family farm despite pressure from the constantly
expanding sugarcane plantations in the region. Families with small
farms that produce food for their own consumption and to take
to market tend to have a much higher quality of life than those who
rely solely on income from cutting sugarcane.


A sugarcane field with a remnant of Atlantic Forest behind it.
In what is still called the "Forest Region" of Pernambuco,
most of the remaining forest is in small pockets of 1 square
kilometer or less. These are essentially islands of forest in
a sea of sugarcane destined to become sugar and ethanol.

 
A sugarcane field burning in the middle of the day. The fields are burnt
just before harvest, supposedly to get rid of some of the excess fibers
on the cane, and to kill off any snakes or other dangerous critters lurking
in the fields. Workersgo out into the fields soon after the burning, sometimes
while the ground is still smoldering, to begin cutting cane. On any afternoon
the Forest Region you can see numerous fields burning on the horizon. At night it
appears that the whole region is on fire, as the planters take advantage of cool
evenings to burn their fieldsand reduce the risk of fires getting out of control.
Needless to say, during the harvest season air quality here is extremely poor.

Link to my Picasa album with more photos of my fieldwork in Pernambuco:

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Swimming hole

Swimming hole
Nate, David, and me at the local swimming hole

Climbing

Climbing
David climbing at the swimming hole near our house. This is the location of my first rock-climbing lesson.

Beautiful Miraflor

Beautiful Miraflor
a home in Miraflor with the nature reserve and mountains beyond

Waterfall jumping!

Waterfall jumping!
sweet swimming hole in Miraflor

Catching chicharras in Miraflor

Catching chicharras in Miraflor
We spent half the day in Miraflor catching bugs in the trees with this awesome kid

Parasite tree in Miraflor, Nicaragua

Parasite tree in Miraflor, Nicaragua
this parasite killed the tree inside it over 200 years ago, now you can climb it inside and out, as David and these Nicaraguan kids

Sunset

Sunset
sunset at Las Penitas, Nicaragua

Howler monkeys

Howler monkeys
a family of howler monkeys on Omotepe

Omotepe

Omotepe
Concepcion, one of the volcanos that makes up the island of Omotepe in Lake Nicaragua

In the jungle...

In the jungle...
with Nathan and Crystal (visiting from Michigan) in the jungles of Claudio Barillo National Park

Hammock time

Hammock time
Crazy photo of Andrea and me hanging out in the hammock at my house

Charging in Dominical

Charging in Dominical
After getting worked I went after some of these smaller waves which turned out to be a lot of fun

Gotta love waterproof cameras

Gotta love waterproof cameras
taking surfing pics in the water at Dominical

Attempting backside in Dominical

Attempting backside in Dominical
I'm attempting to work on my backside here in Costa Rica

The "Cool Bus"

The "Cool Bus"
Chilling in the Cool Bus in Dominical

La Selva Biological Station

La Selva Biological Station
Venturing into the jungle

Ladro Ladies!

Ladro Ladies!
In Manuel Antonio with Andrea and Sheena

David and Lynn Manuel Antonio

David and Lynn Manuel Antonio
David and me hiking (and swimming) though Manuel Antonio National Park

Volcan Poaz

Volcan Poaz
Posing with the smoking crater of the beautiful Poaz

Cute huh?

Cute huh?
David and me having a couple of beers at a surfers bar in Playa Hermosa

Surfing accident #1

Surfing accident #1
A minor bruise from getting Sheena's leash caught around my arm while she was learning to surf at Jaco

Surfing accident #2

Surfing accident #2
2 days after the incident in Jaco I broke my board in half trying to surf at low tide in Manuel Antonio

Surfing Playa Cocles

Surfing Playa Cocles
my first time out surfing in Costa Rica. I was pretty pumped