Friday, January 22, 2010

Sugarcane, Bees, and Agrarian Reform



What do sugarcane,bees,and agrarian reform have in common you ask? Well that is what I set out to discover on my recent week in the field. For my research on the impacts of sugarcane ethanol production on rural livelihoods in Northeast Brazil, I have decided to conduct a case study of one municipality in the sugarcane-producing Northern Forest Region of Pernambuco. In this rural municipality, Tracunhaém, the majority of the land is dedicated to producing sugarcane on large-scale plantations; the sugarcane is turned into sugar and ethanol in factories located on the plantations themselves. Such large-scale sugarcane production has persisted in the region since the sixteenth century, when colonial Brazil became an important producer and exporter of sugar for Europe. For over three hundred years the production was driven by brutal slave labor, and while in the century and a half since abolition the system of labor on the plantations has changed significantly, slavery and quasi-slavery still exists, and even where it doesn't, the sugarcane-producing regions are some of the most impoverished in this highly unequal country.

Brazil, a nation with the world's tenth largest GDP, one of the world's highest levels of concentration of land and wealth, and therefore one of the most highly unequal societies. Here, I can dine on excellent sushi in an air-conditioned restaurant with my friends who own nice cars and live in luxurious condos, and the next day help another friend tend to her two goats (i.e. her bank account on hoof) after a lunch of homegrown cassava and beans in her 12" x 12" adobe hut. And this is precisely how I live here, between the two worlds that coexist in this corner of Brazil.

However, the focus of my research is not inequality or the contrasts between the up-and-coming urban middle class and the rural poor, although it is of course highly related to my research, as it is related to virtually all phenomena in Brazil. The ethanol that fueled my friend's car to take me out to sushi could easily have been produced by the sugar-ethanol factory whose plantation butts up against my friend with the goats' family farm. Just last week I saw the damage done to nearly a third of their small farm when the fire set to the sugarcane plantation got out of control and went onto my friend's land, burning a number of fruit trees and a large pineapple crop. As a rural peasant who fought against that sugarcane baron for six years for her right to own land to farm, she knows very well just how powerful he is and that filing any sort of complaint about the damage will get her at best nowhere, and at worst hurt or in trouble. That's Brazil, folks. And this is the "green" fuel that is lauded the world over.


My friend Ena and her mother on their farm (the part where fruit trees are still standing, untouched by the fire)

 
Ena with her bank account

So back to the story of sugarcane, bees, and agrarian reform, and my week doing fieldwork in the rural municipality of Tracunhaém. I chose this municipality as my case study in part because I had already begun to develop relationships with people there, and also because I think that as one slice of pie out of the whole sugarcane-producing Forest Region, Tracunhaém seems to encompass many of the typical ways of life and relationships that exist there. In other words, I hope that by studying this municipality I can to some extent speak to the conditions throughout the region, thereby providing a useful portrait of how rural livelihoods in the sugarcane-producing region are affected by sugar-ethanol production, and how an increased demand for ethanol in Brazil and internationally might affect their lives and those of future generations, as well as people who are currently landless and seeking to realize their right to own and farm land via agrarian reform. Where do the bees come in? Keep reading. You may even get to see yours truly in a bee keeper's suit.

For my week in the field I headed to an agrarian reform settlement where I had stayed on previous shorter trips. An agrarian reform settlement is a rural community of previously landless people who occupied land that was privately owned by a large landowner (in this region that means sugarcane plantation owners), and after years of struggle, camping out in tent cities, facing violent evictions and intimidation, the land was eventually expropriated and divided up amongst the settlers so that each would have around 23 acres of land upon which to farm, have a home, and make a living off the land. The land is only expropriated if it meets the National Institute of Colonization and Agrarian Reform's (INCRA) qualifications for being considered "unproductive" and/or not meeting social and environmental regulations of land use. Of course meeting those qualifications does not mean that it is automatically expropriated. It takes years of the landless occupiers and the NGOs and social movements that support them lobbying INCRA. It usually takes 5-8 years for the land to be expropriated to the landless, thereby realizing their right to land and ensuring that Brazilian land is productive and fulfilling its social function.
The community I stayed in, we'll call it NC, is one of these settlements. Its residents are mostly people who previously lived on the impoverished outskirts of small poor cities throughout the region, renting small homes, selling their labor on the sugarcane plantations, and barely scraping by. Most of them had lived on sugarcane plantations during the period when the plantation owners housed their workers on-site, or they lived on small farms near the plantations. But with the value of sugarcane increasing, and plantation owners only wanting to intensify and increase their production, most small farms in the area have been bought out and plantation owners have evicted their residents/workers. This has of course caused cities throughout the region to swell with people from the countryside. This phenomenon occurs throughout Brazil, which explains the millions of people in favelas and the millions that have joined the landless movement in search of a dignified life in the countryside, where they can make a living as a small farmer.
I had already made numerous contacts in NC through the Brazilian NGO that I am collaborating with. I was welcomed there by my new friends, who have also become invaluable informants, contributing their wealth of knowledge about life in rural Pernambuco, both on and off the sugarcane plantations. During my week in NC I stayed in families' homes, ate with them, chatted with them, went to their farms with them, watched novelas with them, and asked lots and lots of questions about their lives. I conducted informal interviews with nine community members, filmed, and took hundreds of pictures. I also went to a nearby community, BO, which is not an agrarian reform settlement. BO is another alternative for those people who left the land in past decades but didn't want to live on the outskirts of cities. BO is a small rural town where a plot for a tiny house can be bought cheaply. Located in the middle of a sea of sugarcane plantations, in BO around 90% of men work either cutting cane or performing some other service on the plantations. No one in BO owns enough land to even plant a garden in. They go to the city on the weekends to buy all of their food. When the sugarcane harvest ends (it only lasts 6 months, meaning most families only have steady income 6 months of the year), BO residents enter the hungry season. The government provides assistance with buying basic food stuffs and cooking gas. Only those households with a family member who has employment outside of the sugarcane plantation escapes the hardship of those 6 months. I conducted interviews with 8 community members in BO to learn more about their lives, which are in many ways drastically different from those on the agrarian reform settlements. One thing I learned is that the conversion of the old sugarcane plantations that had become unproductive into agrarian reform settlements has actually helped the residents of BO. While sitting fallow, those plantations provided no employment and produced no food for local communities like BO. Now that that the agrarian reform settlers have converted the plantations into small diverse farms, many BO residents work for part of the year on the farms in exchange for money and/or food that they help to plant and harvest.

One of my informants from NC, Espedito, is an enthusiastic farmer and artisinal beekeeper and honey producer. While many of my new friends here are extremely passionate about their work and lives as small farmers (not to mention as revolutionaries, which is what they truly are and what many of them consider themselves to be after occupying and fighting for land for 6 years), Espedito's passion is above and beyond most others. He is currently conducting numerous "experiments" on his farm, seeking ways to make it more productive, while maintaining its diversity and adhering to the "agroecological" methods of farming promoted by the landless movement. Yes, as it turns out, the landless movement is pro environmental conservation and sustainable agriculture as well. Its opposition to large-scale agricultural is not only framed in terms of social justice; it is also about living sustainably off the land, living well, and reducing dependency on agribusiness. What's all this about the rural poor being one of the main drivers of environmental destruction? Come visit my friends in Pernambuco and they'll show how their takeover of the land from sugarcane barons has led to diverse, carbon-rich farms combining standard small-scale agriculture with agro-forestry, reforestation of the almost totally devastated Atlantic Forest on parts of their settlement, and preservation of ground and surface water sources. They take pride in being the only farmers at their local market to sell organic fruits and vegetables.
 
Espedito, working hard

On Espedito's farm, numerous acres are dedicated to an agro-forestry experiment, where he is letting native vegetation grow in amongst his fruit trees (papaya, banana, passionfruit, guava, jackfruit, and many more), and has planted several native species throughout. He also has an organic vegetable garden and medicinal plants garden for his family's use, all fertilized with his experimental home-made organic fertilizer, the secrets of which cannot be revealed here. ;) His latest experiment is his fish ponds, where he is attempting to raise tilapia and one native Brazilian species. He took an interest in raising fish in part because it has less of an impact on the land than raising livestock. Under the hot sun Espedito excitedly gave me a tour of the farm, and sent me off with a bag full of fresh fruit and an invitation to harvest honey with him the next day.


That's me, suited up and ready to harvest some honey.

Of course I took him up on the honey offer! The next day Ena, Espedito, Espedito's nephew Charles, and I all got suited up and headed out to  harvest honey at his 15 bee boxes spread across the 23 acre farm. When I had initially accepted the offer I hadn't really been thinking about what it would feel like to be covered with bees. We've all seen video footage of those guys in bee suits covered in hundreds of bees, and most of us (however not scared of bees we may claim to be) have probably thought that we would never be caught dead doing that, right? Yes, I was one of those who never liked the idea of being covered in bees, protective suit or not. Once I got into the astronaut-like suit in the middle of the afternoon, however, I found myself suddenly more concerned with the heat than the bees. Maybe it was the adrenaline that kept me from collapsing from heat stroke. Or the fact that I felt like above all I needed to keep up with this crew of hard-core farmers that I had gotten myself into this adventure with. In order to be able to film and photograph part of the experience, Charles gave me a pair of yellow rubber dish-washing gloves (as opposed to the thick canvas gloves usually worn), saying that he could not guarantee their integrity. Nice. So of all the times that my heart really got beating, it was mostly when dozens of bees started to land on my hands, and at one point one tried to sting the fuzzy velcro of my video camera strap (they're always looking for hair or skin to try to sting, I guess this felt more like part of my body than the rubber gloves). Throughout the long afternoon of honey harvesting, I found myself mostly either holding a camera, with both my hands and the camera covered in bees; carrying boxes of fresh honeycomb, with hundreds of bees following me and trying to eat the honey as I took it away; or at other times in charge of smoking out the bees (see picture at top of post- Ena on left is holding the smoke-maker), and covering others in smoke to try to get the bees away from them. One time I had to do an emergency squirt of smoke into the hole in Charles' pants, which the bees had found and mercilessly attacked. It ended up being more fun than scary, once I got used to the bees. Turns out I love bees! And I love harvesting honey!
Once we got back to the house and unsuited, far away from the bees that had followed us and were still trying to eat their honey, I had the opportunity to chat with Espedito about his new career as a beekeeper. He told me that his beekeeping and honey-making is merely "artisinal" and that he plans to keep it that way. He has a niche market; people even pulled up to his house while I was there asking to buy a liter of his honey (for those who know about it this stuff is in high demand). He enjoys raising the bees and selling their honey, and it provides a welcome boost to the rest of his farm income. However, he's not trying to get rich off the honey, that's for sure. He hopes that his entire farm will eventually become more productive, and thereby more lucrative, but he very much considers himself a small-scale agroecological farmer, and for this reason will not compromise his values to make a profit off the farm. For example, he plans to make his agroforestry system more productive, and to be able to market his organic fruits at a higher price, rather than clearing the native forest and planting a monoculture of bananas. And, to be blunt, he has no illusions of getting rich. I am not trying to romanticize the lives of these people, but am merely being honest when I say that almost all of the agrarian reform farmers that I have met have told me that they are content with the simple life and relatively low income of a small-farmer. It is worlds better than the life of the landless urban poor that they held before, and they aspire mainly to enjoy being able to grow their own food and live off the land. They have a passion for this life. They hope their children will get an education and get good jobs, but they also hope that the farm will stay in the family, and that at least some of their children will be able to know the joy of living off the land.
Small-scale beekeeping and agroforestry are two ways in which the farmers on the agrarian reform settlements are opposing the dominant model of large-scale agriculture. By owning land, and partaking in these sorts of agricultural activities, residents of NC and similar communities have, from what I can tell, managed to make a living that is often more lucrative and, perhaps most importantly, more rewarding than the living made from cutting sugarcane for six months of the year, and spending the other six months unemployed. Sugarcane plantations are the predominant source of employment for this region, and as long as they continue to expand and limit the expansion of the agrarian reform, it is difficult to imagine the human development index (or any other indicator of human well-being) of the Forest Region improving. And forget about reforestation or reduced greenhouse gas emissions. Sugar and ethanol both may just be products that the world's population needs (?), but how can we find ways to produce them while ensuring more sustainable rural livelihoods, more rural happiness, and less environmental degradation?



Delicious fresh honey from Espedito's farm


Link to my Picasa album with more photos from my week of fieldwork in Tracunhaém:  http://picasaweb.google.com/lynn.m.schneider/FieldworkTracunhaem#

Friday, January 15, 2010

David’s Eventful Holiday in Brazil: A Mugging, a Trek, an Engagement, and Much More…

David visited me in Brazil for two weeks over the holidays, and we enjoyed 14 days full of Brazilian adventure of all kinds. And, most importantly, we got engaged! That's right, David and I are going to tie the knot! We have virtually no plans as of yet, but are thinking that we'll hold some kind of ceremony somewhere in the Pacific Northwest in either late 2010 or 2011. The story of the engagement and our other Brazilian adventures follow below:

I picked up David at the airport in Salvador, the Afro-Brazilian coastal city where I spent my first few weeks in Brazil, and where we would together launch our holiday extraordinaire. We spent a couple of days there staying at a cute little hotel on the beach, and enjoying the city's cultural, gastronomic, and natural wonders.

On our first day we stuffed ourselves with crab and moqueca at a beach side restaurant and lounged and swam the afternoon away at my favorite beach in Salvador- Praia do Farol. That night, celebrating being in Brazil and being together for the first time in over three months, we headed to Pelourinho for dinner, drinks, and dancing. Pelourinho is a fun and beautiful neighborhood in Salvador's historic district; it is also famous for pickpockets, muggers, and the like. It was a wonderful setting for a romantic dinner of bobó de camarão and caipirinhas outside on the cobblestone street. We were so content after dinner that as we began to walk down the street we didn't even notice the two boys coming up behind us. A couple of teenagers pretending they had guns by putting their hands in their shirts in a gun shape mugged us right there in the street, with plenty of people around. We quickly realized that they were not actually armed, and luckily only lost a cell phone. No one was hurt. Not too bad, considering. We were still startled and bummed in a big way, and for some reason I thought it seemed like a good idea to file a report at the police station two blocks from the mugging. The officers lounging around the station acted annoyed that we were interrupting their novela and late night snack. Why bother reporting a stolen cell phone when these things happen every day and there will be no investigation? Besides, we are just a couple of gringos that will be gone tomorrow. Who cares? So maybe we wasted our time with the police, who are notorious in Brazil for being corrupt and linked to local crime gangs. And anyway, we were lucky that this was a non-violent mugging where no one was hurt. In a way I even felt relieved (not that night, but a couple of days later) that I had been mugged and it had been mostly painless. Anyone who spends a significant amount of time in Brazil is bound to get mugged at some point, right? And I was really just waiting in dread for the day it would happen to me. Whew! It's finally over with.

That night, despite being a bit shook up, we decided to continue our night out and make it one to remember for something more than a mugging. So we headed to a bar with an outdoor stage and a live samba band. We enjoyed some draft cerveja Skoll and sambaed it up. I looooovvveee samba!!! I think David started to love it too. ;) Most of all we enjoyed watching the locals dance up a storm. Samba is such a joyous, high energy dance. When dancing samba people move their feet and hips at lightning speed, all the while maintaining a huge grin on their face. It's fantastic to watch and partake in. The energy that Brazilians bring to the dance floor, and to life in general, is just so impressive! Once that bar closed we headed to the streets, which were filled with hundreds of locals out looking for more samba. We joined a street party taking place outside another samba club until we were too pooped to samba and deal with the pressing crowds anymore. We headed back to the hotel to hit the hay. And that was just David's first day in Brazil.

On our second day in Salvador we hit up the beaches again, which this time of year fill up with thousand of beer-guzzling, cheese and shrimp-munching beach-goers. It is a fun beach atmosphere, but by no means a relaxing one. 


 Praia do Farol

By that afternoon we were out of the city and on a bus headed into the interior of the state, toward Chapada Diamantina National Park. After a 7 hour or so bus ride into the night we arrived at our destination - a beautiful lodge in the picturesque community of Vale do Capão, on the north-western edge of the park. We did a day hike to the famous Fumaça waterfall on our first day, and spent a good deal of the day trying to call Copa Airlines from our guide's brother's house (thank God for the generosity and hospitality of Brazilians!) in what increasingly seemed like a futile attempt to track down David's lost bag. Copa left it behind in Panama City on David's layover there, and as far as we knew at this point the bag hadn't even made it into Brazil. So frustrating! In both Salvador and Vale do Capão we called all kinds of phone numbers for Copa in Panama, the US, and Brazil from any phone we could scrounge up trying to tack down that bag and have them send it to us. We do not recommend flying Copa Airlines! When we finally got a hold of someone who knew where the bag was, we asked them to send it to the Salvador airport. We had little hope, however, of any of the items of value being in the bag after its extended stays in airports in Panama City, Rio, and Recife. Oh the travails of international travel!

Looking over the edge of Fumaça waterfall

The next day we put our worries about the bag (and about anything else for that matter) behind us and hit the trail to Vale do Pati with our guide, Adelson. This was a three night four day trek through what is said to be one of the most beautiful parts of one of Brazil's most acclaimed parks. When the park was created the government paid people who lived inside the area to relocate, but several families who had lived there for generations, mostly as small farmers, remained. Those families now host backpackers and have small farms, but their main income is from the backpacker tourism. Our three nights in the park were spent in the homes of these friendly local families, eating their delicious dinners of rice, beans, pumpkin, and savory veggies, and enjoying huge breakfasts with spreads of four or five different dishes at least. Despite the miles we put in on this trip, I think I may have actually consumed more calories than I burned! The homemade food was so yummy and so plentiful, how could I not? It's always the food that makes a trip. ;)


One of the homes we stayed at in Vale do Pati

On day two of the trek, December 23, after climbing up the mountain known as Castle Rock and enjoying a SPECTACULAR view of the valley, David, Adleson, and I headed to a waterfall for an afternoon of swimming and sunbathing. On the trip we visited at least one waterfall each day, almost all of them great for swimming and some good for climbing and jumping. This waterfall was stunning, and the pool below ideal for diving and swimming. While sitting on a rock ledge in the water near the fall, David wiggled a ring out of his shorts pocket (thank God he managed to hold onto it!) and proposed to me. And of course I said yes. Thanks to David's scheming we even got pictures of the proposal. Adelson was in on it and took pictures of the whole thing from the rocks. 

The proposal

We were engaged in paradise, and spent our first few days as fiances in a honeymoon-like state, trekking through this paradise full of rainforest, waterfalls, orchids, swimming holes, and lush green canyons with steep rock faces. What a place to be in love!

Enjoying being in love in the Vale do Pati

After our week in Chapada Diamantina David and I returned to Salvador by bus, spent the afternoon on another packed beach, and then boarded a plane to Recife. At the airport in Salvador we picked up the lost bag, only later to discover that it was missing nearly $200 in gifts that David had brought down to Brazil. Some airport employee had a great Christmas. I repeat: We do not recommend flying Copa Airlines! Flying into Recife at night we saw hundreds of fires in the sugarcane fields East of the city, and David got a bit of an introduction to what the state of Pernambuco, and my research here, is all about. During the sugarcane harvest the fields are burnt at night, and laborers trucked in in in the early morning to cut in the burnt fields, where only the cane itself remains standing on the scorched ground. David didn't get to visit any of the sugarcane plantations or communities that I'm doing research in on this trip, but at least he got to see some of it from the air.
That night we arrived at my apartment in Olinda, and being a Sunday night in December, we had to take to the streets to enjoy the festivities at least for a while, even though we were exhausted from traveling. From December until Carnival in mid-February, on Sunday afternoons and evenings the streets in the historic center of Olinda fill up with Carnival performers rehearsing, and literally thousands of revelers following them, dancing, drinking, and enjoying the festivities. Basically, each Sunday is a mini-Carnival. This particular Sunday was the most crowded and lively I'd seen yet. A friend from my neighborhood adopted us for the night and guided us through the maze-like streets and throngs of people. Unfortunately we arrived too late to see any of the live performances, but at least we got to experience the atmosphere. David and I ended the night with tapioca, a fried manioc flour crepe that is a common street food here. Delicious! During our next few days in Olinda we hit up the beaches (those deemed safe from killer bull sharks), sampled Olinda's best restaurants and beach-front bars, and wandered the beautiful streets of the historic center. David fell under Olinda's spell, just as I have. It is an amazing place. 

David in Olinda

David also got to meet some of my colleagues and friends in Recife, including the family that I stayed with prior to moving to Olinda. It was fun for me to have them all finally meet. My friends Mariana and Diego even gave us a grand tour of the best sights in Recife- Boa Viagem beach and Recife Angtigo- followed by a dinner out at my new favorite restaurant, the all-you-can eat sushi place. We stuffed ourselves and enjoyed a fun bilingual dinner conversation.

On the porch of my apartment 

For New Year’s Eve David and I dressed in white (local tradition- David didn’t love it) and met up with Mariana, Diego, and other friends at the beach in Olinda. There were thousands of people out celebrating in the streets and on the beaches. Families had brought tables down onto the sand and covered them with feasts. There were bands playing frevo (a traditional music that Olinda’s Carnival is famous for) in the street, and at midnight there was a truly impressive fireworks show. It was slightly scary when the stand that the fireworks were being lit off of caught on fire, but the show went on, apparently without any unexpected explosions. After the show Mariana and I waded into the water and jumped over seven little waves, another local New Year’s tradition that is meant to bring good luck for the coming year. After our beach time we headed into town and to a house party. The highlight of the night was when we left the party around 3:30 am, apparently at just the right moment, because we were met by a frevo band marching through the street and dozens of people following and dancing behind. It was 3:30 in the morning and there were people of all ages having the time of their lives, with huge smiles and amazing dancing skills. The energy in that group was amazing. I think it was a highlight for David’s trip.

David and me in our white on New Year's Eve

Sadly, David had to leave. L We spent New Year’s day on the beach, and that evening enjoying seafood and beers at various beach side restaurants and bars. It was a fun farewell. David had to leave at 3 in the morning for the airport to head back to cold Washington, D.C. I miss him like crazy. He may be able to visit again, maybe even stay for a few weeks, later this spring. However, there is a good chance we won’t see each other at all until I return to D.C. in April. Seems really far away… I am so grateful that he was able to visit for two weeks and that we had such an amazing trip, during which David was able to get to know the Brazil that I have come to love.

I will provide updates on the engagement and wedding plans as they come into being!


Looking out my window in Olinda

Link to my Picasa album with more photos of David's two weeks in Brazil: http://picasaweb.google.com/lynn.m.schneider/ChapadaDimantinaHighlights#

Swimming hole

Swimming hole
Nate, David, and me at the local swimming hole

Climbing

Climbing
David climbing at the swimming hole near our house. This is the location of my first rock-climbing lesson.

Beautiful Miraflor

Beautiful Miraflor
a home in Miraflor with the nature reserve and mountains beyond

Waterfall jumping!

Waterfall jumping!
sweet swimming hole in Miraflor

Catching chicharras in Miraflor

Catching chicharras in Miraflor
We spent half the day in Miraflor catching bugs in the trees with this awesome kid

Parasite tree in Miraflor, Nicaragua

Parasite tree in Miraflor, Nicaragua
this parasite killed the tree inside it over 200 years ago, now you can climb it inside and out, as David and these Nicaraguan kids

Sunset

Sunset
sunset at Las Penitas, Nicaragua

Howler monkeys

Howler monkeys
a family of howler monkeys on Omotepe

Omotepe

Omotepe
Concepcion, one of the volcanos that makes up the island of Omotepe in Lake Nicaragua

In the jungle...

In the jungle...
with Nathan and Crystal (visiting from Michigan) in the jungles of Claudio Barillo National Park

Hammock time

Hammock time
Crazy photo of Andrea and me hanging out in the hammock at my house

Charging in Dominical

Charging in Dominical
After getting worked I went after some of these smaller waves which turned out to be a lot of fun

Gotta love waterproof cameras

Gotta love waterproof cameras
taking surfing pics in the water at Dominical

Attempting backside in Dominical

Attempting backside in Dominical
I'm attempting to work on my backside here in Costa Rica

The "Cool Bus"

The "Cool Bus"
Chilling in the Cool Bus in Dominical

La Selva Biological Station

La Selva Biological Station
Venturing into the jungle

Ladro Ladies!

Ladro Ladies!
In Manuel Antonio with Andrea and Sheena

David and Lynn Manuel Antonio

David and Lynn Manuel Antonio
David and me hiking (and swimming) though Manuel Antonio National Park

Volcan Poaz

Volcan Poaz
Posing with the smoking crater of the beautiful Poaz

Cute huh?

Cute huh?
David and me having a couple of beers at a surfers bar in Playa Hermosa

Surfing accident #1

Surfing accident #1
A minor bruise from getting Sheena's leash caught around my arm while she was learning to surf at Jaco

Surfing accident #2

Surfing accident #2
2 days after the incident in Jaco I broke my board in half trying to surf at low tide in Manuel Antonio

Surfing Playa Cocles

Surfing Playa Cocles
my first time out surfing in Costa Rica. I was pretty pumped